Monday, January 14, 2008

Zooming In On Zurich

As happens from time to time here at It's A Magical World!, one of our faithful readers (and it's usually the same one every time) writes in to request travel advice for some far-flung location that I've happened to have visited. Today's spotlight shines on Zurich.

What To See
Basically, leave Zurich. While Zurich is a pleasant, easily-navigable business center, its tourist appeal is its status as a rail transit hub. Zurich is an hour (or an hour and change) away from several, more interesting destinations:

Bern - Switzerland's capital boasts parliamentary buildings, national museums, performing arts venues, Classical architecture, and a beautiful central town square.

Lucerne - This postcard-perfect town sits on a pristine lake at the foot of a prominent mountain. In the old town, medieval-era guilds painted frescos on the side of buildings. They remain today.

Basel - While this city on the Rhine may primarily be a shipping center, Basel is uniquely located at the confluence of three countries, allowing you to walk from Switzerland through Germany into France in the span of about eight minutes.

Schaffhausen - Another town with a beautifully-decorated central square (though largely reconstructed after it was "accidentally" bombed by the Allies in WWII). Be sure to check out the Rhinefall, which, though it might not be Europe's tallest, is certainly Europe's most powerful waterfall.

Lauterbrunnen Valley - Okay, so it's about two hours from Zurich to Interlaken, which is the gateway to the Lauterbrunnen Valley. But it's worth the trip. From there, a series of trains and trams takes you into the heart of the Alps. The mountains tower literally 10,000 feet above the floor of the valley. You can see four distinct climactic zones as you look upward. Many of the towns on the lip of the valley prohibit cars, adding to the pastoral nature of the area. When the snow melts during the spring, waterfalls emerge everywhere. If weather permits, my recommendation is to take the tram up to Murren and then hike down into the valley. It is one of the most splendid walks I've ever experienced.

Of course, if you insist upon staying in Zurich, I recommend you walk south from the main train station along the Linmatquai, cross over the Quaibrucke, and walk back up the other side. There are some interesting shops, markets, cobblestone streets, parks, and churches. I'll give you about three hours before you get bored and hop on a train elsewhere.

What To Do
If sightseeing grows old, go for a walk! Switzerland has a network of footpaths criss-crossing the country, all of which are well-marked and well-maintained. Nothing beats a hike through the Alps. Depending on the time of year, you can even go skiing.

What To Eat
Swiss food isn't particularly distinctive. With three distinct areas where three different languages are spoken, cuisine in each region tends to resemble that of its neighbor, rather than anything indigenously Swiss. In other words, you'll find German food in Zurich, French food in Geneva, etc. However, the Swiss tend to use more cheese than any of its neighbors, for obvious reasons. As a lunch, I recommend a raclette, which is made by placing a block of Gruyere under a heatlamp then scooping off the top layer of melted cheese and placing it on a slice of baguette. I'd also suggest Rosti, which traditionally are fried, shredded potatoes, though I prefer variations that bake the potatoes in the oven along with cheese, meat, or vegetables. And of course, fondue. Be prepared to pay through the teeth for any of these delicacies.

What To Drink
In central Europe, you really can't go wrong with beer of just about any type. I'd recommend that you make a point to try Swiss wine. The quality is comparable to French and Italian wines, but since the limited size of the Swiss wine industry essentially precludes exports, you get an additional novelty factor.

How To Get Around
As this space has mentioned before, the Swiss rail system is second to none in terms of coverage, frequency, and punctuality. No matter where you want to go, a train will be leaving within an hour. You'll be paying for this privilege, however. If you'll be in Switzerland for four days and plan on riding the rails a lot, buy a Swiss Pass for CHF 255. Otherwise, there really is no good way to save money. Make sure you purchase your ticket (and validate it, if necessary) before boarding, because if you're caught onboard without one, penalties are severe.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Top Five Best Things about Zurich
1. Marc Chagall stained-glass windows at the Fraumunsterkirche.
2. Walking - Meander through small streets, up steep urban grades, and emerge over beautiful urban panoramas with the lake and mountains.
3. Free cold potable water ....everywhere.
4. Fondue and Chocolate .. 'nuff said
5. I was there for only 30 hours. While 3 hours is a bit of an understatement, not much left to see after a morning and two afternoons of exploring.