Don't Cry For Me, Buenos Aires

A friend e-mailed me the other day and asked me to send him some travel tips about Buenos Aires, which I visited in 2002. In the interest of public service, rather than limiting the tips to his eyes only, I post them here so that the entire world can partake of my advice.

Things To See
Buenos Aires is one of those cities where the attraction lies less in a laundry list of sights and more so in just walking around and getting a feel for the city. Major sights include the Casa Rosada (Pink House, Argentina's answer to the White House), the cemetery in La Reloleta (above-ground necropolis in which Eva Peron is interred), the Teatro Colon opera house, and the neighborhoods of San Telmo (home of tango dancing) and La Boca (colorful working-class area). The city's main boulevard is Avenida 9 de Julio, with 14 lanes of traffic, neon billboards, and an obelisk that has become the city's icon. There's a floating casino in Puerto Madero where I won A$100. Many of the government buildings have distinctive architecture. BA also has art and history museums as well as a zoo. Above all, though, I emphasize the charm you will discover just walking around and seeing what you encounter.

Things To Eat
Steak, more steak, and some Argentine red wine (Malbec is the native wine while there are also some amazing Cabarnet Sauvignon to be had). The first Spanish settlers imported cattle to the country, and when they abandoned their settlements they left the cows behind to roam free. When the colonists returned, they discovered that the livestock had evolved into a breed of super-cattle, which makes for the most amazing beef anywhere in the world. Get a real steak rather than the "parrillada," which is a plate of assorted organ meats. Oddly enough, Argentina also consumes the most ice cream per capita of any country. It's pretty good stuff.

Things To Buy
With an exchange rate of roughly A$3.20=US$1, you can find some amazing bargains in BA. I recommend leather products (belts, wallets, jackets) and designer merchandise. Check out the pedestrian malls along Calle Florida and Calle Lavalle for the best stores. There are also street markets that take place occasionally. I recommend the market in La Recoleta.

Things To Watch
The quintessential Argentine nightlife experience is a tango show. Visit the San Telmo neighborhood for tango clubs. Sometimes, the dancers (invariably gorgeous) will grab spectators out of the audience to join them on the dance floor. Also, Argentina's two most reknowned soccer clubs (Boca Juniors and River Plate) play in BA, along with other, smaller clubs. BA has a decent opera and theatre scene as well.

Excursions
I highly recommend catching the Buquebus ferry from Puerto Madero to Colonia del Sacramento, in Uruguay. In addition to tallying another country in your passport, Colonia is worth seeing as a preserved historical settlement and a quiet escape from the hustle and bustle of BA. It's a 45-minute ride on the high-speed hydrofoil and about 2:45 on the standard ferry.